Check a card's value.

1. Read the collector number

Bottom corner of the card, usually something like 4/102 or 215/203. The first number identifies the card and the second is how many cards the main set holds. A number higher than the set size, like 215/203, means the card is a secret rare, which is where most of the value in modern sets lives.

2. Find the set

The set symbol sits next to the collector number, and the set name is the single most important thing you need, because the same Pokemon is printed dozens of times across twenty five years. A Charizard is worth anywhere between fifty cents and five figures depending entirely on which set it came out of.

3. Match the exact printing

One card in one set can still have several printings: first edition, unlimited, holofoil, reverse holofoil, a promo stamp. They are different cards to the market and their prices are nowhere near each other. Every card page here lists each printing separately with its own price, so match the one in your hand rather than taking the highest number on the page.

4. Read a sold price, not a listing

This is the step that trips people up. A listing price is what someone hopes to get, and anyone can list a common at $500. A market price is calculated from completed sales. Every number on this site is the second kind.

Then adjust for condition honestly. The prices here are near mint, ungraded. A card with whitened corners or a crease trades well below that, and a card clean enough to grade trades above it, which is what the grading guide covers.

What your card is probably worth

A hard truth worth saying plainly: most cards are worth very little. Of the 27,302 cards we price, the large majority trade under a dollar, and the value is concentrated in a few hundred. That is not a reason to skip checking. It is a reason to check the ones with a real chance first: holos, secret rares, and anything from before 2003.